Over the past two decades, China has poured its energy into safeguarding its intangible cultural heritage or feiyi (非遗), breathing new life into ancient crafts, skills, and traditions that were at risk of disappearing. The concept of feiyi emerged after China ratified UNESCO’s 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. Initially focused on preserving endangered practices like traditional embroidery or opera styles, feiyi has since blossomed into a cultural and commercial movement fueled by younger Chinese consumers.
Since 2018, the guochao (国潮) or “national wave” trend has been leading the Chinese consumer market, influencing everything from Fashion to Food&Beverage. But how does it stand apart from feiyi?
The answer lies in the distinct path each movement takes. While guochao modernized cultural elements to make them more appealing to a wide audience, feiyi aims to honor traditions by keeping them authentic and true to themselves. Instead of just riding a trend, feiyi gives cultural heritage a sense of enduring value and prestige by bridging the gap between history and modern life.
The Chinese government has made feiyi a central part of its cultural revival, using it to inspire national pride and reconnect young people with their roots. The rising popularity of Chinese artists sharing ancient crafts on social media shows just how much Gen Z is drawn to these age-old traditions.
At the heart of this movement is Li Ziqi, a beloved influencer admired both in China and around the world. After disappearing for three years due to a challenging legal battle with her agency Weinian over control of her brand, she has finally emerged victorious and is back to share the peaceful rural life, traditional skills, and Chinese culture that earned her 20 million subscribers on Youtube.
Jiang Xunqian is another young artist who has managed to earn an enormous following, and for good reason: she is the first woman to master the breathtaking yet extremely dangerous art of “Datiehua” (literally “strike the iron flower”), a mesmerizing molten iron art form. Speaking on CGTN’s TV magazine show The Vibe, she dismissed the idea that young people don’t care about tradition, pointing out that they’re actually incredibly passionate about it—they just need more chances to explore it. The proof is clear: on Xiaohongshu, the hashtag #feiyi has gathered 1.5 million views and over 560,000 posts. As Jiang put it, “The only thing young people lack is the opportunity to be exposed to the culture.”
Western brands are increasingly weaving elements of feiyi into their designs, creating a powerful blend of tradition and innovation. In 2019, Swarovski showcased its dedication to preserving China’s rich traditions by partnering with the China Cultural Heritage Foundation to launch the “Grow Little Tree” program, focused on safeguarding and promoting the country’s intangible cultural heritage. This early effort highlighted Swarovski’s deep appreciation for Chinese culture, a vision that resonates even more strongly today as China has grown into its second-largest market by sales. Loewe has also embraced feiyi marking Chinese New Year with its 2024 launch of six Flamenco Mini handbags inspired by jade carvings from Beijing’s Palace Museum.
But perhaps the most enchanting tribute comes from Louis Vuitton, whose Mid-Autumn Festival gift box reimagines the vivid paper-cutting traditions of northern Shaanxi. Featuring mythical figures like the “Goddess with twisted knots of hair” (抓髻娃娃) and the “Jade Rabbit” (玉兔捣药), the box includes paper-cutting sets, fabric ornaments and scissors, offering a unique interactive experience. Besides celebrating cultural preservation and artistic innovation, these homages to Chinese culture show how traditional heritage and modern life can seamlessly come together.
The integration of feiyi into the fashion industry is opening exciting opportunities for the rise of Chinese luxury brands as well. In the cosmetics sector, brands like Florasis have introduced products that integrate traditional artisanal techniques, such as the “Impression of Miao” makeup series inspired by Miao craftsmanship. Similarly, high-end fashion label BOTAO has incorporated the elegance of Song brocade into its designs, showcasing the beauty of this ancient textile art. These efforts strike a powerful chord with culturally confident Generation Z consumers, who embrace traditional craftsmanship as a mark of sophistication and personal identity.
With the growing focus on sustainable development, leveraging intangible cultural heritage in design could propel Chinese luxury brands to international prominence while acting as a vital force for the preservation and evolution of these cultural treasures in a modern context.
The path forward for luxury appears to be deeply tied to integrating heritage with contemporary fashion. As the demand for luxury goods is slowing down in China, feiyi offers brands the chance to enrich their products by adding cultural depth and lasting value. Now that a growing wave of interest for feiyi is sweeping across consumers, what better time to embrace it?